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§ 02.05Windows + glass — TX + OH

Five symptoms, five honest verdicts.

Most window calls are not a full replacement. Fog is a glass swap. Drafts are a sash. A stuck sash is hardware. A rotted sill is the only one that needs the whole unit. We walk every opening, run the sashes, check the seals, and tell you which fix you need.

5 yrinstall workmanship warranty
§ 01Per-symptomFive-row decision tree
§ 02IGU swapSealed unit, frame stays
§ 03Pan-flashedFull unit installs
§ 04Andersen · PellaProVia · Marvin
§ 05DFW + OhioBoth states
§ 06In-houseSame carpentry crew
L/The five symptoms ledger

The diagnostic, before the quote. One row per symptom.

Five symptoms cover almost every window call we get. Four of them are a repair, not a replacement. We walk every opening, decide row by row, and tell you which fix you actually need before we say a word about brands. The numbers below are the real bands, not bait pricing.

01

Fog between the panes

The insulated-glass-unit seal failed. Argon escapes, room air seeps in, water vapor settles between the panes.

Repair pathGlass swap, frame stays$280–$420Half-day per opening
Replace pathFull unit$1.6K–$2.4KOne day
Go repair

The frame is almost always sound. We replace the IGU and reuse the existing sash and trim — under $400 a window, no painter back to touch up the casing.

02

Drafty when the wind blows

Weatherstrip is compressed, sash balance lost tension, or perimeter caulk failed at the brick mould.

Repair pathStrip + balance + caulk$160–$26060–90 min
Replace pathSash kit on a 12-yr+ unit$420–$6802 hr
Go repair

Almost never a replacement. Strip + lubricate runs an hour per unit; the perimeter recaulk is the real fix on most TX retrofits.

03

Sash that sticks, drops, or won’t stay up

Spring balance broke, balance shoes wore through, or the jamb liner pulled loose at the head.

Repair pathBalance + shoe rebuild$220–$3402 hr
Replace pathFull unit on 18-yr+ wood$1.4K+One day
Depends on age

On a vinyl unit under 15 years old, hardware. On a wood double-hung older than 20 years, the cord pulleys are gone and the jamb liner is the real issue — often the unit goes.

04

Cracked frame, rotted sill, soft trim

Pan flashing was missed at install or sill nosing held water against the wood. Once the sub-frame goes soft, the sash will not square again.

Repair pathPatch + epoxy on cosmetic rot$280+Half-day
Replace pathUnit + rough-opening rebuild$1.8K–$2.6KOne day
Go replace

The only one of the five that actually warrants a full window. We cut back to sound framing, sister in pressure-treated lumber, re-flash the opening, then set the new unit. Skip it and the next install leaks at year three.

05

Dented screens, hail dings on the frame

A summer hailstorm in TX or a spring squall in OH. Dents read as deferred maintenance even when the glass is fine.

Repair pathRe-screen on-site$80–$12045 min
Replace pathFrame + screen kit$340–$48090 min
Go repair

Re-screen runs under $120. If the storm caused it, the whole line item rides the roof claim — same deductible, no second visit.

Want a verdict on the windows on your house?Book the free walk-through
G/Glass package register

Three glass packages. One real recommendation per house.

Glass is the part of the window that actually does the work. Below is the plain-English version of the spec sheet — visible light through the glass, how well it holds room temperature, how much summer sun comes through. We make the recommendation on the walk-through; the right choice in Dallas is not the right choice in Cleveland.

PKG.01

Single-pane

For period-correct restorations only

A single sheet of glass. The way windows were built before 1985. Useful only when the house is on a historic register and the trim profile is irreplaceable.

  • Daylight (VT)0.78Lots of light through
  • Heat-keep (U-factor)1.04Heat leaks fast — bad
  • Solar heat (SHGC)0.78Sun bakes the room
Use case
Historic restorations where the original trim must be preserved.
On the energy bill
Highest energy bill of the three. Roughly $400/yr more on a 12-window TX house.
Most installs
PKG.02

Dual-pane low-E

The default on every install we sell

Two panes, an argon-filled gap between them, and a microscopic metal coating ("low-E") on the inside surface that reflects heat back into the room in winter and out of the room in summer. The standard from Andersen, Pella, ProVia, Marvin.

  • Daylight (VT)0.55Plenty of light
  • Heat-keep (U-factor)0.28Holds room temp
  • Solar heat (SHGC)0.25Cuts the TX summer load
Use case
Almost every replacement we do. Pays back the upgrade in 4–7 years on a TX cooling bill.
On the energy bill
Baseline. The number every other package compares to.
PKG.03

Triple-pane

Worth it on the Cleveland north-facing wall

Three panes, two argon gaps, two low-E coatings. Heaviest and most expensive. The math works in cold-climate winters where heating dominates the energy bill — Cleveland and Akron, not Dallas. We will tell you when you actually need it.

  • Daylight (VT)0.42A touch dimmer
  • Heat-keep (U-factor)0.18Best of the three
  • Solar heat (SHGC)0.21Lowest summer gain
Use case
Cold-climate north walls (Ohio). Rarely justifies the upcharge in TX.
On the energy bill
$120–$180/yr below dual-pane in Cleveland. Less than $40/yr difference in Dallas.

VT = visible-light transmittance (more = more daylight). U-factor = heat-loss rate (lower = warmer in winter). SHGC = solar-heat-gain coefficient (lower = cooler under TX sun). Numbers above are NFRC-rated package medians from Andersen, Pella, ProVia, and Marvin spec sheets.

S/Install-day scope rail

Six things every install gets, even when you forget to ask. Same six, every time.

Window installs do not fail at the unit. They fail at the wall behind the unit—a missed pan flashing, a tapered shim under a fastener, a perimeter caulk that cracks at year three. Below is the rail we hold every job to. Photographable, checkable, the same in Dallas and Cleveland.

  1. Pre-walk~45 minutes

    We measure every opening before a quote is written.

    Every rough-opening width and height. Sash operation. Seal condition. The trim profile around the window (the brick mould, the casing, the sill nosing). Whether the housewrap tape is still tacky behind that trim. The diagnostic walks the house, not the catalogue.

    • Width + height of every rough-opening, in inches and sixteenths
    • Sash drop test on every double-hung; jamb-liner check on every casement
    • Moisture-meter read on every sill where the trim looks soft
  2. Tear-outHalf-day per opening

    Old unit removed, sub-frame inspected before the new one shows up.

    We pull the unit, photograph the rough-opening, probe the sill plate, and call the homeowner before the new unit goes in if rotted framing changes the scope. Surprises that cost money are surfaced before the surprise compounds.

    • Existing flashing tape removed cleanly, never re-used
    • Sill plate moisture-meter read; PT lumber sistered if soft
    • Photo of every rough-opening sent to homeowner before unit set
  3. Pan flashing20 min per opening

    Butyl pan flashing under every sill. The single most-skipped step.

    Pan flashing is the bathtub under the window. Without it, the first wind-driven rain in a Texas spring or an Ohio thaw runs straight onto the framing. It costs $14 in butyl and 20 minutes of labor; the post-install leak it prevents costs $4K in drywall and trim.

    • Butyl pan with end-dams turned up at the side jambs
    • Flashing tape at the head and sides, lapped into the housewrap so water sheds outward
    • Sill set in a continuous bead of polyurethane sealant
  4. Set + shim60 min per opening

    New unit set, shimmed level, fastened to spec.

    Plumb in two planes. Level on the sill. Square diagonal-to-diagonal within an eighth. Fasteners through the nailing fin or jamb shims per manufacturer pattern — Andersen, Pella, ProVia, Marvin all spec it differently and we follow the spec, not a generic pattern.

    • Composite or cedar shim stock; never tapered cedar shims at fasteners
    • Fastener pattern matches manufacturer install instructions
    • Operation tested before insulation: sash slides, lock catches
  5. Trim + caulk90 min per opening

    Brick-mould rebuilt to original profile, perimeter sealed UV-stable.

    The trim is what the buyer sees from the curb. Profile matched. Joints back-caulked, then face-caulked with an elastomeric rated for 25-year flex (Sashco Big Stretch, OSI QUAD MAX). Reads white at year five; no painter back to chase a hairline crack at the south reveal.

    • Brick-mould profile matched to existing — never substituted with stock
    • Sashco Big Stretch or OSI QUAD MAX at every perimeter joint
    • Backer rod in any joint over 1/4 inch before sealant
  6. Walk-off30 min

    Open every sash, lock every latch, paint the trim, hand off.

    Every unit cycles open. Every lock catches. Trim primed and two-coated to match the existing color. Site swept, drop cloths rolled, the offcuts hauled. We do not leave you with a screen leaning against the garage or a drywall-dust trail.

    • Operation video on every replaced unit, sent to homeowner
    • Manufacturer warranty registered before we leave the site
    • Final pass with magnetic sweeper for nails or staples on the lawn

Same six on a single unit, same six on a 14-window whole-house. The carpenter who ran the pre-walk runs the install—no subcontractor swap-out between the quote and the job site.

Walk every opening with us

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§ 06Reach the dispatch desk

Verdicts on-site, not over the phone.

The carpenter who would do the work walks every opening, runs every sash, checks every seal, and tells you — row by row — which units repair and which units replace. You leave with a real scope. The price comes after the diagnostic, not before.

(214) 578-9961